casey
2mo ago
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100%
Well, since this is my first time I'm not entirely sure. I didn't remove any of the seeds so even though it fermented for 2 years it did calm down the heat. Still packs a hell of a punch.
You can't go wrong though.
First time making hot sauce. I let this batch go from 09/26/2022 to 10/01/2024. Came out amazing. I did it very simple. Strained peppers and garlic after removing as much Kahm yeast as I could. Tossed all of the peppers and garlic in a blender. I added back 1/2 cup of the lacto water and 3/4 cup of white vinegar. Didn't add anything else and it's phenomenal. It's hot but not too hot (for me). Complex flavors.    
I bought several of [these beer shanks](https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-shank-stainless-steel-4.html) back in 2015. I took it apart recently to clean. Since the description says it's stainless steel I figured I could clean the rust off of the barb insert. Looks like it wasn't made of stainless steel.  Should I just reuse this thing or get a new one? If so I need the specs on this part so I will know what I need to buy. Thanks for any help you can provide. EDIT #1: Would this be a suitable replacement? LitKiwi 2PCS Keg Coupler Barb Connector,Stainless Steel 304 Beer Kegerator Sankey Couplers,Hex Nut 5/8"G Thread x 1/4" Barb Beer Line Tailpiece Nipple Fitting with Sealing Gasket Washer https://a.co/d/g6HhP2c EDIT #2: I emailed the customer support at MoreBeer and I got this response. They have great customer service. > Hi Casey, > > Thanks for reaching out. This looks like a standard shank tailpiece. Here is a [straight version,](https://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-stainless-14-tailpiece-pack-4.html) along with a [curved version](https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-tailpiece-316-elbow.html), in case it makes things easier. > > Feel free to send me the invoice number after you order. I'm happy to refund the shipping cost for the inconvenience. Thanks! > > Cheers! > Zack > > Zachary Marin > Customer Service Representative | MoreFlavor! Inc. | 1-800-600-0033 Hours: Mon - Wed, Fri | 7:00 am PST - 4:00 pm P > Visit Our Sites > MoreBeer.com, MoreBeerPro.com > MoreWine.com, MoreWinePro.com > BrewmasterWholesale.com
casey
5mo ago
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100%
I installed Gallium OS on an aging Chromebook that was no longer offered support from Google. I've been able to run FreeCAD on it with no problems.
The little Acer I bought years ago is spill proof and designed to be fixable. I think it was initially intended for kindergarten classrooms.
Initially I bought one for my dad because he was constantly getting his computer infected with viruses due to forwarding emails. This little Chromebook fixed 90% of those problems.
I loved the Chromebook so much that I bought myself too. I was disheartened when Google stop supporting the hardware but then when I found out about putting that specific version of Lennox on them it gave them new life.
casey
5mo ago
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100%
Heidegger, Heidegger was a boozy beggar who could think you under the table.
casey
5mo ago
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100%
Got the part in but my wife went into labor. We had a 8 lb 7 oz baby!
Obviously this is going to delay the progress of this saw project.
I did want to mention that the bent washer isn't very "bent". I'm going to figure out how to provide measurements once I can get to focus on this again.
I promise I'll get y'all updates at some point.
casey
5mo ago
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100%
How did this turn out??
casey
5mo ago
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100%
Still waiting on the part.
USPS says it should be here tomorrow (05/10/2024).
I'm looking forward to using this thing for so many projects.
casey
6mo ago
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100%
Still waiting on the part. USPS is late with the shipment.
I won't let you down. I'll keep ya posted. Thanks again for all the help!
casey
6mo ago
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100%
I am reluctantly ordering a single wave washer here for $9.76 if you include shipping:
5140032-75 Washer, Curved, 10.1 X 17Mm - Dewalt®
I checked all of my local hardware stores. I think Lowes usually has these, but they said their small parts vendor hasn't come to restock anything in a long time and they weren't sure when they would be coming back. All other hardware stores in my area didn't have them or staff wasn't very helpful.
I will keep everyone updated. I hope this is the last part that I need to order online. I'll try to do a summary video when I'm done because I haven't found many that really get into this level of detail on repairing this specific issue online. I'm just glad I'm keeping this thing out of the dump and I hope to start using it soon so I can start to build and repair some stuff around the house. Super excited about building a French Cleat system in my shed.
casey
6mo ago
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100%
I'm looking at this part of the diagram
I'm noticing part 83 (Washer 5140032-75)
That washer appears to be bent on purpose on the linked website for replacement parts and I'm guessing that it would keep the tension on the threaded dowel consistent. I think mine is missing or it was flattened out when someone torqued the mechanism.
Upon further research that is a bowed washer, spring washer, curved washer or wave washer. Their purpose is to retain tension and it's likely the solution to my gears binding. More can be explained in this video: https://youtu.be/sG1gSQGZQl8?si=nQhzR2a8TZUwJ5rY
That's another guess.
Would like to get some guidance here.
casey
6mo ago
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100%
Well, the screws were definitely over torqued, but it didn't fix the issue. I tried multiple methods to get one of the screws out but had to use a grinder and a flathead screwdriver to get it out.
I think I may have an Idea what is causing the issue after looking at the gears after your advice.
Since the clanky movement really only happens in one direction when the saw is on its side I figured it had something to do with the direction of the pressure being applied by the screw mechanism.
When I put the table saw completely upside down and then tried to move the blade up and down it was very smooth.
This led me to think that there might be some movement in the gears based on the pressure that's being applied. Watch this video to see what I'm talking about and you'll see a gap that closes when I go in one direction and opens back up in the other.
You can see the movement of the gear at about the 1:04 mark in the video.
https://youtu.be/4J7jqrm9Sn4?si=UAGNhSC3HjRo7LS8
Any advice?
casey
6mo ago
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100%
Thank you!! I always appreciate learning something new.
casey
6mo ago
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100%
I'm attempting to learn what a shaft boss is so I can find it. Is there a part number on this exploded diagram that you can refer to?
It may be in the 30s or 50s (if that helps you find it)
casey
6mo ago
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100%
You may be right about the tightness. I noticed that the spinning gets smoother when the saw is on it's side as seen here in the second video I made. https://youtu.be/MdXE7IPnA6s?si=AteFwlZ1x2kFfOVt
casey
6mo ago
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100%
I don't think they are skipping. It gets smoother when I have the saw on it's side.
cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051 > I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes. > > I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65). > > The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade. > > I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.
youtu.be
cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/12406051 > I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes. > > I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 & 5140100-05). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65). > > The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade. > > I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing on the motor.
I'm not sure where the right place to post this would be, but here goes. I bought this DW745 Type 2 saw off of Facebook Marketplace. I think it was abused. I replaced both of the elevating shafts (5140100-04 Diagram # 82 & 5140100-05 Diagram # 84). I also had to replace both of the bevel gears (5140061-65 Diagram # 56). The aluminum housing seems to be okay and the lifting shafts move in and out without much resistance. I'm still getting this chunky movement when I raise and lower the blade. I'm looking for advice before I go though the whole process of replacing the entire aluminum housing (Gear Case A25607 Diagram # 213) on the motor. 
casey
11mo ago
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100%
I use an older version of this sharpener to restore a sharp edge and then hit the blade with a strop.
I got this strop that came with the compound. I used a tiny bit of olive oil on the leather and spread it evenly with my fingers.
I mostly use the rough leather side with compound to really finish the sharpening and then polish with the smooth side with no compound for the final polish.
Also, I can do serrated knives with the sharpener, but I read that you should never strop a serrated blade.
I just got a leather strop for the first time in my sharpening journey and what a difference! I sharpened all the straight edge knives at my in-laws before Thanksgiving Day and finished them with the strop and compound. Unreal! I'll post links to what I used if it's allowed.
casey
1y ago
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100%
Thank you! Yeah. It was definitely time to harvest before spores got all over everything in my closet.
I plan on putting some of them on agar and playing with more propagation.
casey
1y ago
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100%
Thanks!
fungifarm.com for the win!
cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2968180 > cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556 > > > I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates? > > > > As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.
cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556 > I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates? > > As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.
cross-posted from: https://mander.xyz/post/2967556 > I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates? > > As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.
I know I can send soil samples to my local university extension office for testing, but how do I test soil for glyphosate-based herbicides, lead, arsenic, and other contaminates? As a citizen scientist I'm about to get into composting more on my property and would like to know more.